Here is xlowes Brad Nelson that I did. Had a few pain dings from moving. If you are doing a replica and need to repaint, don’t repaint the side ribs or rear fins, cover them or too much paint. -SGT
Awesome work as always. Can’t wait to get it back. Thanks Steve.
Just a bit of cleanup and She’s heading home. -SGT
That looks really nice. This kind of seamless touch-up restoration has always fascinated me (see also Tom Spina’s work). How did you keep from having a seam/bump where the new paint met the old at the edge of the tape?
Thank You, I roll up the masking tape edges, you can see it a bit, then feather in the paint. It works for this textured paint but I’d have to try with other paint. Also, I prefer to paint in cold to cool weather not hot or in the summertime.That was done at 5 degrees Celsius. Hope that helps. -SGT
Cool, thank you for the tips!
Awesome work as always Steve. Thanks for restoring it back for me.
It was a pleasure, packed and ready to ship tomorrow morning. I will pick up another BN waiting for restoration. -SGT
Those phasers are gorgeous!!!
Phaser jewelry really…
You could look at it like that, but it is just experience with the paint and the aluminum brushing. The unique thing I did, was polish the inside of the nozzle. It seemed the right thing to do for a flash, it increased the intensity. I work on these to please my friends in the prop community that love this design and the history. They seem to love it and it’s all fun. -SGT
My Painting Method
If anyone is going to build a BN Replica and use the Rustoleum textured pewter grey and the black, it’s 14” away with the spray. Do 2 coats and wait a bit between coats, more and you will not have the same result, it will be too shiny. Also, The paint after it is dry to the touch is rubbed lightly with a polyester microfiber rag you see sold for cars. This smooths out some of the grit that will gather dust etc., it was discovered by accident. You will see the results as you lightly rub. The paint has a slight sheen to it. If you have a bad area, lightly sand and a respray works fine. Also, look at the spray on a piece of newspaper, you can see the coverage. -SGT
Noted, and thanks!
Great tip Steve, thanks.
BrianM requested a nozzle. He suggested I share this;
The CADCAM rendering makes the front chamfer seem bigger that it really is (actual is 0.03310"). Silicone and resin adjustment tools used to get actual dimensions as close to real prop as possible. I also took a look at the recent restoration photos be be sure the cast you provided was on-target. (p.s. it was)
I’m sourcing the custom tools now (my cost, no worries). You were right about the knurl profile being “non-stock”. I’ll keep you posted on the “when”…my schedule opens up in August and I need the tooling first, so I’m thinking later August and surely before Sept 01.