It wouldn’t have been as sweet if you hadn’t come across one and drawn up the schematic. I did have images from that last one but it is handy when a wire comes loose.
Doing the Ten Turn knob and pointer.
With the Ten Turn I remove the clear on the lower aluminum and polish it to accept a rub on lettering.
You might have to do it a few times to get it right. After spray with a clear and set aside. If you are doing a replica the knobs are a found item and I will add the list on my Replica thread.
Something is odd. A slight struggle.
When removing the Caps in beginning I cut the wires from the ten turn switch at the positive leaving a bit of the wire color. The Grey cap or flash was yellow, the Blue cap was green and the Black cap was black. This allowed me to put the wires back to their original place. I did lengthen the wires using the same color. So, when I was doing the 1, 2, 3 lettering I instinctively put them like that instead of 3, 2, 1 because of remembering where the flash is. But I knew that wasn’t right. Ok, so I redo the knob but the Phaser orientation is wrong. Looking at Brad’s instructions I see 1 - Burn, 2 - Stun, 3 - disintegrate but the Phaser works in reverse 3, 2 and 1 respectively, but there is a difference on this one. 3 is a fast strobe but not bright, 2 is about the same speed but brighter and 1 is the flash or disintegrate plus 3 and 2 are adjustable. Looking back at my images everything is wired as received with the only change being a smaller flash cap having the yellow wire.
The error knob
The corrected knob
The original cap wiring shows the 3 cut wires about 1/8 inch with most important the yellow wire from the ten turn on the positive on the big grey flash cap.
Opening up to verify, that is very cool thanks to @Buddahaid
I don’t know if Brad had made the error or if this older one was reversed at the time but it is easy to swap the yellow or 1 with 3.
3 - 2 - 1 has been my experience also with these early 1st gen units. Fantastic work as usual… Cheers!
Is it coming? Is it coming?
The Phaser is done but when I went to test it out I see the batteries went down faster than usual during a video. I got some new batteries and observed the same. I’m focusing on the stand alone transistor that gets it’s heatsink pretty hot. I did change this on the other one I did because of the heat.
It seems I can see the other restore on the TPZ via Photobucket. #17 was like this one with a 2SB324 which was replaced by a TIP30A that @Buddahaid suggested for a replacement and chose for his replica boards.I need to get one of these and a heatsink.I’ll call my Electronics shop tomorrow after I check there is no short.
Ok, the transistor by itself had gotten hot and melted the vinyl tape and a bit of it’s wiring. The b e and c were not touching. No other damage at all except that. I will start with a replacement, the TIP30A if I can find one and heatsink. I quickly looked for any short but nothing seen. I used the socket on this transistor which may be an issue. It is easy for anyone to pop the hood and troubleshoot.
Cannot locate near me, ordered the transistors and heatsinks on eBay. Put the Phaser back in it’s box. Don’ touch that dial, stay tuned.
Picked up the TIP30 transistors and Heatsinks. $14.00 for the lot shipped. Will be getting r done.
Used the Black Textured on my Jeep Grill.
Found no short in the circuit and the phaser still worked but hot. The TIP30A was installed with arctic silver 5 paste and the heat sink. Thicker wire was used. There was no noticeable heat after the install. It is possible the transistor socket was not compatible in this instance or the transistor is no good for this application and will heat up with constant use. The Phaser was tested with two sets of batteries and worked flawlessly including in the Goodbye Video Test where the heat problem was first discovered.
This restore took some time but I enjoyed it. Also, being a perfectionist, it has to pass my eye. I am recovering from insomnia and the weather here in Quebec was cold and rainy for a while but is better now. I will be sending this out Tomorrow so @rnomura will have it for next week.
I would like to thank Ron for entrusting Me to work on his Bradley Nelson. I would also like to thank Brad Nelson for supplying parts that were used in this restore. Also, to @Buddahaid who supplied the schematic and photos on this circuit.
Last but not least - Thank You Friends!
Steve it’s always fun watching your refurb’s of these, thanks for sharing them here. Has to be an extra special treat for each person who sent them in for refurbishment.
Agreed, this thread has been an absolute pleasure. Thanks for sharing your process.
Beautiful job man.
Received my BN in the mail last evening. Can’t thank Steve enough for the marvelous job he did on restoring my tired old phaser. It looks like 1975 again!!
Your welcome. I think in this restore you got to see what it’s all about. You can’t really see what this Phaser does in a video, it’s very impressive.
Congrats to the owner and the restore king.
Thanks to everyone who followed my threads on these Phasers. I am and I will continue work on my Replicas.
The Bradley Nelson Phaser is an interesting prop with a back story that many TOS fans are drawn to. The Star Trek Phase II story alone is interesting but one man, Bradley Nelson making 430 Phasers and Gene Roddenberry personally choosing it is unique and a part of Star Trek history and popular culture. The use of a Camera Xeon Flash tube that can be seen in the daytime is fascinating. The only thing I do with these is bring them back with patience.
Gotta build one. Step #1 ran the nozzles. Amazed at how many nozzles I can get off a few 3 foot billets. I added threading on the back to grab the epoxy or putty-epoxy.
Made other engineering changes to the “unseen” back ends so these accept; neon, SMLEDs, LED, or 12mm laser modules…