Here’s a new project I’m working on during the holidays: Captain Georgiou’s rank / ID badge!
A couple of caps showing the new detail revealed in the most recent Discovery episode, “Into the Forest I Go”:
Ryan identified the font as OCR-B in the telescope thread, which was the inspiration for this project
First I scanned the back of a QMX badge to create an outline for a laser cut acrylic piece meant to be set into the hollow back of the thing - the part was also engraved with the text information as seen in the screen caps.
As an experiment I had two version made: both with area engraving for the letters, and one with added line engraving around the outline of the letters for extra definition.
The laser cut parts arrived and the outline ended up being a reasonably close fit - the parts needed some minimal sanding on the outer edge to fine tune so that they would drop into place.
The badge magnets are not recessed far enough for the 1.5 mm acrylic to sit flush with the back of the badge, so that area was thinned out with a Dremel sanding drum.
Going back to my line art, I created a drilling template for the rank pips on the front of the badge by tracing some photos from the Vegas and SDCC exhibits such as this one:
I made a couple of versions before settling on “#1”. Then, an automatic center punch created divots to keep the drill bit from wandering, and a drill press made the holes. I calculated the pips (and corresponding holes) to be 3/32" in diameter.
The pips themselves are made from 3/32" brass rod cut to 4 lengths to account for the curvature of the front face of the badge. They sit flat on the acrylic back piece when it is in place, as pictured below. The lengths are approximately 0.214, 0.238, 0.250, and 0.273 inch, but that was before polishing and some fine tuning with a sanding block - forgot to measure again before permanent assembly.
To assemble them, I taped off the pip holes and filled the badge cavity with 2 part epoxy. Then, with the acrylic piece face down on some painters tape, I inverted the badge and fit the acrylic into place. This was a little messy - the idea was the tape would seal against the back edge face of the badge, and create a place for the epoxy to pool and fill into the seam, but some epoxy did leak out. Then before the epoxy cured I removed the tape from the pip holes and set the brass pieces into place.
After curing there was some sanding on a block with various grits to bring the acrylic back and metal edges into the same plane. The epoxy did a fair job of filling the seam and I only needed to use a little bit of spot putty (not pictured).
That’s where I am now plus a quick primer pass and some paint experimentation. I’m going to try the tinted clear coat over Molotow Liquid Chrome approach that someone on the RPF seemed to have success with. Of course, it will be ok if the result isn’t perfect, because the final step will be some super grimy weathering
Oh and here are some files for the back piece and drilling template I used, for your personal use:
Badge outlines.pdf (230.9 KB)
Badge outlines.ai (220.0 KB)