I hope he didn’t buy it thinking it was the real deal.
With his money that is like a keychain.
Little confused by your post. The emiter was replaced by a round flat stud…probably just a nail head… it has an extremely low profile…from some angles it does not show clearly. You can see this both in the video and the museum piece.
I think the issue is the emitter hump on the phaser bottom. In the video the buttons are on the hump side, the Paul Allen piece has the buttons on the phaser top side. Either there were more than one prop with different button locations, or one is a fake.
The Paul Allen appears to be a replica. The original did have the hump on the top based on screen caps.
Ahhh. Thank you for clarifying…of course !
Well, after taking another look at the episode it appears there were actually TWO remotes; one with the emitter hump on the top; the other on the bottom. This screen cap clearly shows there is no hump and I verified it by watching the light on it frame-by-frame. So, there were at least two remotes for this episode; probably a hero and a stunt.
You’re correct, very interesting!
^^ It’s still interesting to note the hero emitter cap clearly appears black in the screen caps.
The cap does appear brass at times depending on how the lights hits it as you can see in the bottom two photos. Also, both version appear to be hero as they both are shown lighting up.
A spectroscope can be used to identify the exact material the prop is made from. Fakes & copies are easy to spot with this technology.
A spectroscopic exam of an older formulation of “Krylon Shadow Grey” is different than a 1995 or 2018 spectroscopic exam of the same paint. Why?; paint formulas are updated to comply with the most recent CFR’s on propellants and pigments etc.
How do we know the exact compositions of planetoids? Or distant planets? Jupiter’s moons of ice. The spectroscope and a good PC…
X-Ray and MRI exams are good tools too, but the spectroscope is the most reliable and least costly in my opinion.
It appears by the new photos posted both were lite props, the flat sided as well as the humped version. Amazing what you can learn! I’ve started my build and will do the “humped” version which I’ll light with leds.
Ok, I cut my body in half. The body is a recast of MM Phaser 1. To do that I cut around the middle in 1/8” with a Dremel & saw. I followed up using a razor saw holding the body in a vise. Use dish soap to aid in cutting, fairly simple. Next I removed the material with an Elkay carbide cutter for the Dremel. For the electronics I had a Future Kit jumbo two led flasher kit. I need to build the kit to see the result.
wHAT IS mm KIT??
@SGT Are you planning to cycle/toggle/alternate between the two LED’s or flash both LED’s simultaneously?
I’ll wire it up to see what it does, I guess the center switch as the original to activate.
So forget the board, I will be using 3 grain o wheat bulbs that I have for the older communicators. I cut the acrylic, a pain at 3/4” to get to the center and form the red triangular square piece. I marked up the area looking at the center of DStines replica.