Klingon Power Leech / Photon Collector Build


#41

Astonding!

Steve P


#42

Thank’s and I just can’t help myself.

I had an idea about how to make the end caps and made one which I’ll just make a mold of. Not perfect but a lot closer than the Marco version.

My idea was I could make a cone of JBWeld if I could find the right shape to pour it in, then sand it into submission. I dug out a small plastic funnel I keep in the camping gear and it looked just right, plus I was pretty sure the JBWeld wouldn’t get a good grip on it.
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Used the belt sander to make the flats.
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I used dental ball tipped rotary tool bits to shape the end then added a washer with a bit of dowel to the center. Sand the lower edge a bit and the bodies edge some and voila.
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Makes a big difference for me.
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#43

Scott
That looks really good…
I wish mine looked that good…
Mike


#44

I have to mold it so I can make you some too.


#45

So now I’ve got the end caps molded. I tried some 1:1 Smooth-on material that didn’t work out for me but I likely didn’t have the right mold release for it. Still I’m used to the white raw rubber with a 10:1 catalyst so I went to Douglas and Sturgess a picked up a gallon. This worked out as planned and there were no surprises.

I made a simple cheap open-face mold in my accustomed manner. Glossy cardboard as the base and frame held together with hot glue. The glossy cardboard doesn’t stick to the rubber and it’s free. I still have some synthetic clay for molding so I planted the part on a 1/4" thick clay plinth to the base while having a beer, or two.
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It cured in a day and came out clean. No wasted rubber filling in corners this way.
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The raw but washed castings.
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Sanded down to size on the belt sander.
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Applied and given a light coat of primer. The hand made part shows a bit but these are far closer to the screen shots.
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#46

Today I made the flashing red “X” circuits. I think they need to go slower at the lowest setting but I’m going to review the movie scene to better judge that and the other lighting.

I fashioned a simple jig to align the LEDs with and help glue on some cheesy spacers, and yes I’m using up precious white package red/green bi-color LEDs so they are white when off.
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The circuit looks like this.
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And fits in like this.
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The whole thing runs like this and I’m using a 50K pot to adjust the speed manually.
Scott Irwin uploaded this video to


#47

You are going so far above and beyond on these…


#48

Here is the electronics for my Collector…
Klingon Power Collector


#49

Scott, are you molding this project for a kit?


#50

I’m thinking of doing so even though it was not in the original plan. I had a discussion about that last Monday with a couple of friends who are interested in one.

That came out nicely. Are you going to use gels with the the two white/blue leds?


#51

I would like to use gels but I don’t know where to buy such things…
Have an Idea?
Thanks


#52

I’m happy to assist if you need anything. This is a rare and excellent prop—and nice to see done so caringly.

You might try a Rosco swatchbook.


#53

Thanks Ryan


#54

My pleasure. If you’re just covering LEDs, that little $5 swatchbook should get you pretty far. :smile:


#55

Well I received the turned rod I had made(thank you Ryan) Friday, made a mold Saturday, and have been casting replacement rods all day.
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I’m going to put brass tube inserts into the main bodies so there will be a nice fit.
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Now I just need to do a pile of Dremel work to get these mounted.


#56

Anyone selling kits of this yet, or piece parts?


#57

I’m getting there but the main parts aren’t finished yet.


#58

I did the Dremel work, or most of it, for the first one, and drilled the 1/2" holes molded into the main body much deeper. The original prop reference photos show the handle part recess to be mostly closed off but about 1/4" deep so that’s what I’m aiming for. The new rods work well but I think I made them a bit too long even though I used the ruler shown in the reference photo as a guide to judging the length. They are, however what they are and look more the part to me.

This is a shot imitating the above referenced reference photo. I liked typing that. :stuck_out_tongue:
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And more of the fit testing shots. It looks to me as if the rod bases, and the last tip length, are not equal when comparing the different reference photos and the screen grabs. I don’t think they are all of the same prop and I don’t know how many were made for production.

With the gap as seen on TV and the silver screen.
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Fully seated.
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Can’t help it I love the dish. :wiggle:
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The Dremel work raw.
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#59

Wow, Scott. This thing looks absolutely perfect to my eyes. I had a vague notion that one day I might machine one of these out of aluminum to try to figure out how to make a really accurate one. But this prop basically looks like a solved problem at this point. :slight_smile:


#60

Be assured these are by no means true to the screen used prop in absolute dimension. I’m pretty much shooting from the hip looking for the correct feel more than trying to make perfect copies. They are, after all, still largely Marco props and not bad to start with all things considered.