Klingon Power Leech / Photon Collector Build


#61

I’m sure that’s true, but the proportions and details look perfect.


#62

I’ve have all the handles built now save for mine. To ensure the rods were strait and true I made an assembly jig similar to what I did for the ST:VI tricorders.
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Mine was built a bit differently in order to temporarily close off the openings so it could be molded. It’s now getting the second part of the mold cured and will be done tomorrow. The mold will stand on the large end allowing me to puddle in some resin and clear out any bubbles trying to form at the rod end before closing it and pouring in the remainder through an opening I’ll cut at the small end. Making oddly shaped molds like this is why I like using shiny cardboard for the forms.
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#63

The release agent worked perfectly and the mold parted. I haven’t made a two part mold in twenty years and had never used this particular release agent before so I was nervous about the rubber becoming one big blob. I still need to cut out the fill hole and test it but I don’t think I have enough resin to pour one on hand. I’ll need to drive over to Douglass & Sturgess in Richmond to get a couple of gallons.
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The plan is to puddle some resin into the bottom of the mold with the plug removed so I can pick any clinging bubbles loose, insert the plug and put a couple of rubber bands on, then fill the remaining resin in from the top. That should pretty much make a bubble free casting.
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The part will look like this.
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Now to clean and finish up my handle.


#64

looking good! I’ve got some molding to do myself when i get home today!!


#65

I never get tired of seeing photos of mold-making. Thanks for sharing these, Scott!

One question, though: where is the pouring gate?


#66

I haven’t cut it out yet but it will be at the butt end of the handle where it will be easy to belt sand the sprue off. The top as it stands in the above photos.


#67

Cool. For whatever it’s worth, one way I have found that works well for creating pouring gates (and especially ex-post-facto vents) is to plunge a drill bit into the silicone. It make a nice cylindrical hole; just bear in mind that it’ll be much smaller than the diameter of the drill bit itself.


#68

I was planning on something nearly the same size as the butt end, but as a lark, I’m going to try poor mans roto -casting first with the resin I have left.


#69

Well here’s what I ended up with.
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Looks pretty good but there are a few small bubbles and the worst bit is some pock marks due to too much release agent still on the mold.
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The mold is just fine where the pock marks are and I know this release agent does this from my first end cap casting.
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As for casting this in the poor mans roto-cast method, it worked pretty well with only one place having some give which just might go away after the part cures longer and reaches full strength. I did puddle into the bottom first with 1.5 oz. and waited for that to kick and solidify enough to maintain it’s shape before adding in another 3.5 oz. of resin.

Here you can see where it’s hollow inside.
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#70

Looks great.
Did you vacuum the rtv before pouring?


#71

No, I’ve never done that. If you’re thinking the pock marks are from under surface bubbles, that’s not the case. It’s caused by the MANN Ease Release 200 I used being applied too heavily.


#72

So, for the poor man’s roto method, how often did you turn it (constantly, every minute, etc)? How long in total did you have to turn it?


#73

I kept rotating all ways until the leftover resin in the mix cup had fully set. It’s the first time I tried it and I felt I could have done a bit better by turning even faster but it’s hard to say now.


#74

Really great work. I have one from Marco also, completely stock from about 1994 , but your upgrades are a huge improvement!


#75

Weekend update.

I’ve put 1/2" brass tube inserts into the main bodies and filled in the gaps. I used 1/2" instead of 15/32" to allow for paint build up. Masking tape was wrapped around the rods so the brass tubes would fit snug and centered and the the tubes were glued in with epoxy.
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The glue was applied from the inside through large slots I cut. Some reaming was needed to get the parts to line up straight together.
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Next I made the basic bottom covers and reshaped the resin bodies to make seats for the covers. Later I’ll glue in blocks for mounting screws.
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The existing plates were severely cut down in size.
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A bit of clean up and primer on the resin parts and they look like this now.
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#76

This thread just keeps getting better.
Scott, you da man.
Now get us some kit action, daddy needs a leech.


#77

Patience have you must. :snail:

I’m converting four of these so everything I’ve posted gets repeated three more times. Getting close to where I can mold the main body now but there is still more to the bottom which will require fabricating another assembly, at least the screen shots indicate there is. The prop photos all seem to be missing that cover assembly.


#78

Scott
I have pic’s of the back of the Collector if you want to see them.
Mike


#79

Here’s the rub. All the photos of the bottom look like this one.

In screen grabs it looks like there is a cover over it to me.


#80

Scott
I see what you mean…
I have the same pics sorry…