SGT's Bradley Nelson Replica Build


Know this posting is a bit late, but I was having the same problem with the emitter, eventually went with an acrylic tube , cut to size , and then turned on a woodworkers laithe , ( a lot slower speed ) then polished . This work is very similar to those hobbyist’s who make and turn acrylic pen bodies . Bringing this up to date , I am now casting my nozzles in a clear hard silicon , simply because I am now adding a class 2b laser , and I wanted a really glowing emitter ( my bit of artistic license) .


Steve Your Bran Nelson Phaser is better then Brads! LOL


Yeah, I did want to make them better. I’ve been in Ontario for the last two Months rebuilding a 1988 Jeep Comanche. I have the Phaser on the bench ready to assemble. I should be back in early November to finish the first one up. It took a lot of time to get it just right. The second one will be faster.



Back to Work. New unseen images. How she was left and looks now, a better finish with sharp side ribs using less paint and rear aluminum fins finished off. Note: the side rails were replaced 2x because of an accident and dissatisfaction. The final coat was also done over a few times to get an overall production finish.The Replica needs to be always protected during handling while I Install the parts. It’s an Art, Right?


That’s not All Folks


This is just like the first one I held at a con back in late 70s. Early on when you were working on the tubes for the handle, Seeing it like that makes me think of a double barrel shot gun- :thinking:


Looking fantastic. Great to see progress on the build.

#31 "I Still Feel It” Bradley Nelson in for Restore

Love it…I was in the US navy from 1980-1993 then trying to get work then disability now so I am a really slow in getting my trek collection together. I also am NOT that knowledgeable about collectable things so here is my question. I have a 23rd century pistol unbuilt. How old are these?
And would it be better to use plastic chrome or the awesome metal parts I have been getting from the Great Jon Paul.


The 23rd century pistol is a good basic replica and makes up very well , was available in the early 2000’s until Paramount issued a c&d order . If you do a search on build ups , you’ll get a lot of information about the slight differences ( and how to fix them) off a few of the modelling boards .
If you go down this route , I would recommend getting a set of metal bits from Jon-Paul as his are very accurate , and will make all the difference in the world to the kit and you’ll end up with a fairly accurate 95% plus model


Thank you for the information !!!-----bob


I will have to find what the differences are.I am confused on the p1 jewel is it red or blue


Actually those are still seen on eBay. You can bash it up and come up with a decent replica, add some lead shot to up the weight. I will be doing a few but prefer resin casts which I did on Sunking’s (I think that is the name) drawings. Make it up in balsa wood, then use airplane dope to harden the surface to produce a mould. Mould it without side or rear top ribs and apply them later, then you can produce a Master. (working on it, shown ready to mark and install the greeble) It would be interesting to compare the two. Stick around, I’m doing more phasers. The jewels were commonly blue but there is also red.


Wow that is so sweet. Really liking it.


That is really great work of art!!!


Ok Bob , listed are the main differences. The detail agrees pretty well with photos of various props and replicas on Richard Coyle’s RAC Props site, with the following easily fixed bobbles:

The chromed “fins” on the back of the main body were sheet aluminum stacked with smoke grey plex between them in the original prop. Dull-coat the plated part and paint Tamiya “Smoke” in the recesses.
The small protrusion which is to be glued behind the Phaser I unit is somewhat fragile and will almost certainly snap off quickly. Replace this with a length of 1/8" (3mm) brass rod inserted into a hole drilled into the body.
The plated disc which is glued to the lower right front of the main body was a rotating switch on the original prop. It’s a simple matter to drill a hole in the body of the phaser and mount the disc on a rotating shaft. The same can be done with the knob on the top rear of the main body.
There should be a small blue LED mounted between the plated adjustment wheel and the clear dial on top of the Phaser I. This can be made with a blue-tinted piece of clear sprue, or a real LED.
The ridging on the pistol grip will need to be sanded smooth with wet 400-grit followed by 600-grit.
There’s no real pattern given for cutting out the self-adhesive chrome, so you’ll have to eyeball this. ( personally I wouldn’t use the chrome , but get the metal ‘crispy’ from Jon-Paul
Although the package touts that the “Unit 1” (their term for the Type I Phaser) is removable, this isn’t strictly true. If you don’t glue it in place, it will simply fall off. You’ll have to plate in the opening on the main body and use magnets or Velcro to hold it in place, or if you’re really adventurous replicate the push-button release of the prop.


Ok thank you so very much


I think it would be helpful, for whomever knows how, to split the 23rd Century Phaser posts into a separate thread. I think it’s really useful info and will probably get lost in the midst of this thread’s primary focus.


Getting back to these. I left off doing the emitter last spring. I had a number of requests for the battery pack and emitters this year which I did including two emitters today. The emitters are hard to do because of melting and cracking. Brad never did the insides of the emitter.

How to do the emitter yourself if you have a lathe. I finalized this method with no problems spending the whole day Today.

Use 3/8” acrylic which will fit @Nicksdad’s nozzle. Cut the length to 2.54” which includes facing both ends. Use the lathe’s slowest speed. Centerdrill the pilot hole. Use a 3/16” Plastic drill bit, the angle is different. Even at the lowest speed the acrylic will melt so always use coolent and cut after seeing about 3/4” slag on the drill bit then pull out the drill and reapply the coolent each time. Using a smaller drillbit run 1000 paper wrapped around it. Pass that till the drill lines are gone. Set the small cross slide, the one with the toolbit holder to 5 degrees and cut the angle in small cuts until the front dia is just over 3/16” or .203 Use 1000 paper on that angle if needed. I use a larger dia 7/32” drillbit to provide room for the solder/srinkwrap etc. That can be done with a regular drill but still use the coolent. I use 1000 paper on a smaller dia drillbit to remove lines followed by headlight polish with Q-Tips.



Those are some clean looking emitters, great process you’ve got going!


Great Info. I’m running a bunch of those BN Aluminum Nozzles right now…


Really great work Steve. I’m sure that Brad would approve of the maximum effort!