Ok Bob , listed are the main differences. The detail agrees pretty well with photos of various props and replicas on Richard Coyle’s RAC Props site, with the following easily fixed bobbles:
The chromed “fins” on the back of the main body were sheet aluminum stacked with smoke grey plex between them in the original prop. Dull-coat the plated part and paint Tamiya “Smoke” in the recesses.
The small protrusion which is to be glued behind the Phaser I unit is somewhat fragile and will almost certainly snap off quickly. Replace this with a length of 1/8" (3mm) brass rod inserted into a hole drilled into the body.
The plated disc which is glued to the lower right front of the main body was a rotating switch on the original prop. It’s a simple matter to drill a hole in the body of the phaser and mount the disc on a rotating shaft. The same can be done with the knob on the top rear of the main body.
There should be a small blue LED mounted between the plated adjustment wheel and the clear dial on top of the Phaser I. This can be made with a blue-tinted piece of clear sprue, or a real LED.
The ridging on the pistol grip will need to be sanded smooth with wet 400-grit followed by 600-grit.
There’s no real pattern given for cutting out the self-adhesive chrome, so you’ll have to eyeball this. ( personally I wouldn’t use the chrome , but get the metal ‘crispy’ from Jon-Paul
Although the package touts that the “Unit 1” (their term for the Type I Phaser) is removable, this isn’t strictly true. If you don’t glue it in place, it will simply fall off. You’ll have to plate in the opening on the main body and use magnets or Velcro to hold it in place, or if you’re really adventurous replicate the push-button release of the prop.