Stapleton Cobra with GMProps Electronics Phaser Kit


#1

Long Holiday gave me time to knock this one out. Much simpler than the Cricket build but a wonderful set of kits to assemble. Thanks to this board for the appropriate paint colors.










#2

10 year old me has gone all jelly like at this! Where did you get the rifle from?


#3

Lots of digging turned up a kit from a website called Hanzo Swords. I’ve been experimenting with body fillers as there were a LOT of bubbles in the resin that had to be filed out.

I’m still not sure if red Bondo is the way to go here, and I’m probably going to order a GMProps phaser electronics kit and figure out how to embed that.

And not long after I ordered the kit I saw Chronowerxs version, and then John_Trek built a georgeous scratch build with styrene. I have never messed with styrene but man is that tempting.


#4

Tocsin, If I may make a suggestion , Hanzo Swords are all solid castings , use the resin cast as a template to create each piece in styrene that way you end up with a series of rectangular boxes, which you can epoxy together , the DustBuster kit from GM Props is the best set to use as it has the biggest speaker and if you fit it at the light point , the hollow box acts like a resonator and the sound is great , fit the electronics as you build once you have the main body , you can ‘dress’ the phaser with additional styrene sheets ! The measurements of which you can take from the resin cast prop . Then paint and finish . I have built several phaser rifles in this manner , for a number of people in the past , and should have created a set of card templates , to make replication easier as the last two had custom electronics and visible beam laser added and I wanted to make one for myself , but didn’t at the time.
I make it five pieces - rear body, handgrip, extension, forward hand grip and head , trace each piece first to get the sizes then re trace the ‘plant ons’ on each of the four sides that should give you all the elements you need to build a hollow version , if you do build this a set of measurements published here would help all those who desire to build one


#5

Thank you, great ideas.

What’s the base styrene sheet thickness you recommend for the body? And how do you get the curves of the battery box on the back?

If I do go with a styrene build- I’m thinking I want to replicate the removable battery as well as the drop out internals on the bottom. Magnets will be my friend I assume.


#6

Love your build threads! Finished this one last year, Stapleton kits are so crisp!


#7

Hi,
You could use almost any thickness styrene you have , but you want to build in a bit of strength , so I would make the base boxes out of 3mm ( 2 mm or 5 mm would be ok as well 5mm being the strongest but it’s harder to work with ) and build them onto a hollow plastic or acrylic tube ( so you have some way of wiring up the electronics from the back to the front ) , the curves are a little more difficult , but there are two mains ways to approach this 1) carve the basic shape out of balsa and then cover it with body filler (Evercoat or similar) sand to size or 2) again carve the basic shape out of balsa and using say 2mm styrene and a hair dryer heat the plastic and using gloves mould the plastic to shape ( a poor man’s vac former , or vacform it , to offer a third alternative, I have in the past used sheet styrene and cut each piece to follow the curve ,( I normally work bottom up) - so each cut piece is slightly smaller than the other and use styrene cement to ‘glue’ the layers together , then sand smooth using filler as needed. When finished you can dremmel out the battery compartment . The very small neomydium magnets ( excuse spelling ) work the best i’ve found .


#8

I’ve literally never worked with styrene, so this is all super helpful. I have access to a maker space with a vacuum former so that may be an option. I’m super tempted to start this journey. My wife says my hobby is collecting hobbies!


#9

Lovely work! I bought the antique white and decided to take liberties and go gold since this will be a matched armory that will get mounted in the trunk lid of my TNG themed Miata. Yeah, I’m that guy.


#10

It begins. Thanks for the push!


#11

First stage is set. Time to scan and drop into Sketch-up. Then rectify all the measurements for output to a Carvey.


#12

If you need more examples of modeling with styrene, check out the Model Railroading hobbyist groups. They use it all the time! (:


#13

Are you producing this on a 3D Printer?


#14

First attempt will be to use a Carvey desktop CNC mill to cut out the pieces in flat styrene, then assemble. My local library has a small maker space.

I may go the next step and print, but don’t have access to a good resolution printer. All I have to do is take these 2d parts and assemble them into a 3D model (that sounds so simple…). If I go this route, I expect to reach out to the Dallas Maker Space for tools and advice.

I may take what I call the battery (the curved part at the rear) and print a buck for a vacuum form part, since I plan to have that be removable and attach with magnets.

This is my first foray into a scratch build…


#15

.svg files- Inkscape was stupid quick to learn. Drawings traced. Now to measure and rectify. Forum doesn’t seem to want .svg files so next time I’ll move to carving plastic pics and probably start a new thread if folks are interested.