The M-94A1 Phaser Rifle


#61

That is all kinds of cool Joe.


#62

Thanks Larry. I’ve also cut the access hole in the upper rear housing. If I decide go with lighting of some sort this will help with the installation and aid in attaching the rear stock. The hole was first laid out then pieces of MDF were nailed along the lines using 23 gauge headless nails and a pin gun. A clearance hole was bored using a forstner bit and then a trim router with a top bearing flush cutting bit cleaned up the hole. The bearing ran against the MDF. The corners have since been squared up using a file and small sanding block.


#63

Fantastic Joe.


#64

Nice work, thinking ahead for access!


#65

Intensive work by a craftsman who knows his art.


#66

Joe, you are a great craftsman and you have all of the right tools as well!!! :slight_smile:
Looking great, my friend.


#67

Thank you all. Yes, Will, I’ve been fortunate enough to be able to assemble a very good assortment of tools over the years.


#68

What a cool technique! I’m learning all kinds of new things in this thread :slight_smile:


#69

This is fun to watch. I’m curious for when you get to the lower body/grip how you intend to strengthen the long thin strut under the power coils.


#70

Glad you’re learning new things from this thread Ethan. I was lucky with this operation in that I could nail the guide pieces directly to the work piece, which saved a lot of time. Usually the work piece is plastic in which case I would have to glue the guide together then clamp it to the work piece in such a way that the clamps don’t interfere with the router. That can be a pain sometimes.

Thanks Scott. Ultimately I want the piece to be cast in resin so it may be strong enough on it’s own. Or I may have to figure out a typical Joe B over engineered way of incorporating some metal bar into the casting. Stay turned, should be interesting.


#71

The HMS Rodd.com version has a metal spine which is why I asked.


#72

Actually Scott, the HMS has two 1/4" square aluminum rods cast into the lower support.


#73

What he said.


#74

Ditto. These were all Rodd LR’s. Examples of where either; (a) kits or, (b) finished riles, have been modified by adding grooves for power wires while avoiding the steel rods;


#75

The lower half of the rear housing is tapered so part of it has to be built up in order for the handle frame to join up with it correctly. I first made a mock up of the frame from MDF, then applied clear tape and paste wax to keep the putty from sticking to it. Once clamped in place it was just a matter of pressing in some epoxy putty and waiting for it to harden. It was then sanded and chiseled to shape. I followed up with spot putty and Bondo.


#76

Fantastic Joe.
Love seeing your work.


#77

This is fun. :heart_eyes:


#78

Really enjoying this build thread Joe!


#79

Very nice Joe!


#80

Thanks guys, glad you’re enjoying this. I glued the side blisters into place. I started with the top half. Installing them one at a time into the upped housing. Once the glue was sufficiently dried on the second blister I snapped the housings halves back together. Then the bottom blister halves were glued and carefully positioned over their top halves. This will be the last up date for a couple of weeks because we’re going to Vegas tomorrow for the con. Hope to see some of you there.