TNG Type III Phaser Styrene on a Carvey attempt


I’ve broken this thread out from my previous one to limit confusion and also to hold me accountable to finish this thing. Stapleton Cobra with GMProps Electronics Phaser Kit

After building out the Cricket and Cobra from Stapleton, I found a resin type three to complete the armory. As you can see, it needed SIGNIFICANT help.

After seeing this styrene scratch build TNG/DS9 Type III phaser rifle - styrene scratch build , I decided to use the new maker space at our library to help with my build. All components were measured off the resin model and hand drawn. I then broke down the drawings into 2D sheets in Inkscape. That has been imported to Easel for milling on a Carvey.

I’ve finally gotten the settings and I believe the measurements- we’ll find out. I’ve got 4 more sheets to mill, and then we’ll start assembly.

Here’s the WIP on my first styrene scratch build:


More to come in the weeks ahead. Any tips or tricks as I go along are always welcome. We’ll see how well I do.


This looks like it will be a cool build. What kind of cement will you be using? I would love to see pictures of the mill you’re using.


Oh, that’s a really cool use of a Carvey! Probabaly gives better cuts than a laser cutter with styrene—which I’ve done before and is quite tricky.


We have a laser, but styrene is not on the approved items for the library, and I was concerned with curling as you mentioned. I was especially pleased with the cuts for the “vents” you can see in the one picture… couldn’t have routed those out with a laser.


Here’s a shot of the Carvey and glue. I have a package of glue syringes, but after watching Adam Savage’s one day styrene build, I may grab a paintbrush for application.

Finished carving all of the 1/8 inch material last night. Next up, sanding edges where needed and then beginning assembly. Still need to redo a couple of parts and have several 2mm plant ons to carve. And I have to decide how I’m doing the ribbed grips.


The cuts are beautiful. Curves, straight, you name it. Using a flat 1/8in bit. I did eat through a couple of 1/32in bits for the vent work, but figured out that hitting the pause button and cleaning the bit after every minute of work cooled things down enough to stop the bit breaks. I prefer the flat to the down or up cut bits. Downcut bits leave a nice top finish, while upcuts will bow thinner material.

The Carvey guys really need a clamp position on the front center edge of the waste board. Too much distance from corner to corner lets thin material bow. 1/8in styrene is fine but anything under 2mm gets a little jumpy.